The Local List 02. Nantucket for Normal People
“damnit, this place is so charming”
The Local List is a series exploring places through the eyes of those who know them best. We'll highlight beloved spots, lesser-known gems, and local favorites that make these places special.
Last week was our wedding anniversary. We were married on Nantucket, so this time of year always brings the island to mind. September is our favorite time to visit — the summer crowds (and traffic) thin out, leaving behind an island that feels more relaxed. The weather is still beautiful, the ocean warm, and beach days can linger well into late October.
A friend who attended our wedding had never been to Nantucket and arrived with some hesitation, due to the island’s reputation for preppy, rich people. But by the first day, he was won over and called us to admit, “damnit, this place is so charming.”
Lately though, Nantucket has been making headlines for all the wrong reasons. Sky-high real estate, billionaires behaving badly, and properties washing away into the Atlantic are common news. Netflix miniseries portray rich, miserable people living there1. Nantucket is gaining a reputation as a playground for the uber-rich, leaving many feeling like it’s out of reach. It’s hard to watch a place I love start to feel inaccessible.
Even with the changes, Nantucket still has its timeless magic — if you know where to find it. For me, the pull of the island has never been fancy restaurants or trendy hotels — it’s the unique combination of natural beauty and historic charm that keeps us coming back year after year.
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Nantucket is located about 30 miles out to sea from Cape Cod, Massachusetts, yet it feels like a world away. Once the whaling capital of the world, Nantucket gradually transformed into a summer haven for vacationers. Tourism began to rise in the late 19th century, and ever since, the island’s small-town charm has continued to attract visitors from near and far.
My great-grandfather purchased a house on Nantucket in the 1950s. Not a fancy waterfront home, but rather a small, one-bedroom house perched just above the top of Main Street. They named it The Bird’s Nest. It had one bedroom for my great-grandparents and an attic crammed with extra beds. The summer after she graduated high school, my mom spent the summer working at the candy shop on the island and bunking upstairs at The Bird’s Nest with some of her cousins.
I grew up in Seattle, but we visited my mom’s family in Massachusetts every summer and often spent time on Nantucket. My mom loved sharing this special place from her childhood with us, and we all quickly fell for the island.
As our extended family grew, we started to rent larger houses that could fit us all. Every summer, we would come together with aunts, uncles and cousins from all over the country for a week that was always filled with memories — hours spent swimming in the surf, fishing off the beach, happy hour at the brewery, sunset picnics, all you can eat seafood, trying to stay steady on our bikes over the cobblestone streets. And I never tire of simply walking around, admiring the historic homes2 and lush gardens — it always reminds me of the island's rich history and enduring beauty.
The trip from Seattle was long. It usually involved a red-eye flight to Boston, followed by a bus to Hyannis, then a ferry to the island. But long journeys often keep a place feeling undiscovered and special.
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Last summer, we traveled to Tofino, a remote, rugged beach town on the west coast of Vancouver Island, Canada. By car, it’s a 7-8 hour journey involving a ferry boat, but when you arrive, you immediately realize why people love it so much. My husband commented that if Tofino were in the United States, there would be commercial flights from all over, it would be packed, and everything would be twice the price. But its inaccessibility keeps it tranquil, much like Nantucket back in the day.
Nantucket is more accessible than ever, which is both good and bad. In May 2007, JetBlue began direct flights between New York and Nantucket. Before that, the only way to get there was on small regional carriers or by ferry from Cape Cod. These flights have made the island more accessible, contributing to a steady rise in tourism during the summer months. While this has boosted the local economy, it’s also led to bigger crowds, higher prices, and skyrocketing property values, making it harder for non-billionaires to enjoy Nantucket the way they once could.
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Around our anniversary, I remembered the guide we made for friends and family that listed our favorite local spots and recommendations. Seven years later, the list still holds true — capturing what makes Nantucket so special to us.
If you plan a visit, I recommend June or September. You’ll have a chance to explore Nantucket’s natural beauty and classic spots without the summer prices and crowds. There’s truly no place quite like it.
Bike
Rent a bicycle at Young's and ride it everywhere. My perfect summer day is one spent biking around Nantucket, taking in the sights and feeling the salty sea breeze. The island is pretty flat so you can get almost anywhere by bike. Last summer, my son was in heaven exploring the island on the back of my bike.
Beach
There’s nothing quite like a Nantucket beach and the island has miles of (public) unspoiled coastline.
The north shore beaches (closer to town), have gentler surf and are great for small kids. Jetties Beach has a beach bar where you can grab a casual meal while kids play in the sand. Steps Beach is reached via a steep staircase with sweeping views of the dunes and Nantucket Sound. Washing Pond Beach is a fun one with kids.
The south shore beaches are on the Atlantic side, which brings cooler temps and heavy surf. Our family has spent many days lounging in the sand and dipping in and out of the waves at Ladies Beach. We also love to watch the surfers at Cisco Beach and Madaket Beach is fantastic around sunset. Bring a picnic (get lobster salad from Bartlett’s and bring your own lobster rolls) or grab dinner at Millie’s.
Music & Drinks
When Cisco Brewery opened in 1995, it was a relaxed place that you could swing by on your way back from the south shore beaches. We’d play cards while enjoying the live music, beer and cocktails. It’s gotten extremely popular and is often standing room only, but even with the crowds, Cisco Brewery remains a staple — perfect for relaxing after a day at the beach. They have food trucks on site, or you can visit Bartlett’s Farm down the road and grab snacks or meals to go from the market.
For late night music, check out the lineup at the Chicken Box. This iconic island spot is a small bar and live music venue that’s always fun.
Eat
Join the early queue at Wicked Island Bakery for their famous morning buns, or grab donuts and fresh Portugese bread at Nantucket Bake Shop.
I never visit Nantucket without getting a Turkey Terrific sandwich from Provisions, which is located in town near the harbor. The decadent combo of turkey, stuffing, cranberry sauce, and mayo on Portuguese bread never fails to satisfy. I’ve heard they have other good sandwiches too, but I never stray. Something Natural is another popular sandwich spot on Cliff Road.
Have lunch on the wharf with water views at Slip 14, or duck into Brotherhood of Thieves, an old 1840s whaling bar and tavern, on a rainy day for some cozy chowder.
Skip the expensive restaurants and grab fresh fish, seafood, a clambake or lobster dinner to go from Sayle’s Seafood. They catered a clambake for our rehearsal dinner and it was the best lobster I’ve ever had. If you do want to eat dinner out, our favorite restaurant is The Proprietors Bar and Table.
Museums & History
Nantucket’s nickname is The Grey Lady, in part due to the thick fog that can often blanket the island. Luckily, there is so much more to do than just go to the beach. A grey or rainy day is the perfect excuse to wander the shops in town and discover the island’s history.
The Whaling Museum dives into over 400 years of the island's rich history.
The Hadwen House is a stunning Greek Revival mansion from 1846, built by successful whaling merchant and silver retailer William Hadwen during Nantucket's peak as the world's whaling hub.
The Jethro Coffin House, also called the Oldest House on Sunset Hill, dates back to 1686. It’s thought to be the oldest home on the island still standing on its original foundation.
Shop
Buy original ocean art at Pete’s Fish Tales. Artist Peter VanDingstee's create "flat taxidermy": paper imprints of just-caught paint-dipped fish. Pick from the available prints, or if you go fishing while on the island, he can turn your catch into your own personal print.
If you can’t beat em, join em! If you’re feeling inspired by the island’s preppy look, grab your own pair of Nantucket Reds™ — the island’s iconic, red-washed fabric color is now officially trademarked — and other preppy gear at Murray’s Togglery Shop, which dates back to 1916. While you’re there, explore the rest of the shops in town, there’s always so many fun things to discover, like Nantucket baskets.
Have any Nantucket favorites of your own? I’d love to hear about them!
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I was excited for this show when I heard it was set on Nantucket, and then so bummed to realize the whole thing was filmed at a house in Chatham, MA.
Nantucket has a unique building code designed to preserve the island's historic character and architectural heritage.
I love your sweatshirt in the nantucket reds photo! Is it the one pictured? Maybe a men's version. Cute photo regardless.
I, too, live in Seattle and we travel to Nantucket each summer with our kids! Such an amazingly special place. I really believe as our kids become adults/parents, they will continue the tradition; it’s that exceptional and the memories made together can’t be beat.
I whole heartedly support your list, but would add 167 Raw to it for a lunch option outside of Provisions or Something Natural (best BLT on the island). Perfect for a lazy day at Ladies or Fisherman’s. ❤️